Five photographs free. A full examination for $39.

The tiers, and how to pick one

The photo limit is the honest way to choose. Count roughly how many photographs the collection needs, then pick the tier that holds them.

Four questions settle it. How many photographs does the collection actually need? Is it one collection or a household? Are you settling more than one estate — if so, the executor route is the cheaper arithmetic. And are grading results still outstanding, in which case budget the $9 re-triage now rather than being annoyed by it later.

What $39 actually buys

Six things, and they're the same six at every paid tier.

• The Verdict What this collection is, in plain English. Written for someone with no collecting expertise, because that's who's reading it.
• The Attention List Every item worth a closer look, with the reason it was flagged. This is the list you hand a professional.
• The Bulk Assessment Everything else, grouped and priced as lots. Most of a collection lands here, and knowing that early saves real money.
• An Action Plan What to authenticate, what to sell, and where. Routes, not buyers — we take no referral fee from anyone.
• The Do-NOT list The irreversible mistakes, before you make them. This is the part that earns the fee: a cleaned coin loses 50–90% of its value in about thirty seconds of good intentions, and it cannot be undone.
• A printable archival PDF Plus a tracker that survives the whole process. Nothing to log into, and nothing that expires.

Why it costs anything at all

Every free valuation you'll be offered comes from someone who wants to own the collection. That isn't a conspiracy and dealers aren't villains — a dealer paying wholesale for a box of bulk takes real risk and is often the right buyer. But the person valuing the collection shouldn't be the person bidding on it, and free valuations are almost always the same person.

So the fee is the business model, and it's deliberately the whole of it. We never buy, never sell, never broker, never take a percentage, and never pass your details to anyone who does. That's what makes it possible for a report to say a collection is worth very little — which is the honest answer more often than families expect.

What the price does not buy

Worth reading before you pay, because these are the things people assume are included.

• Not a certified appraisal. No signature, nothing an insurer or a court will accept. For an insurance schedule, a contested estate or a charitable deduction you need a qualified appraiser in person. What we do is tell you which items justify that fee.
• Not a sale, a buyer or a broker. We don't sell anything for you and we won't introduce you to anyone. Whichever route you pick, you still have to walk it.
• Not a precise figure for any single item. Values arrive as ranges. There's no code path in the product that can print a single number, on purpose.
• Not a number on everything. A low-confidence item comes back saying “worth a professional look” with no figure attached, because a made-up figure either makes someone bin treasure or embarrasses them at a dealer. How the calibration works explains the rules.

When not to pay us

This is the most useful section on the page, so it isn't buried.

If the boxes are entirely sports cards printed between 1987 and 1994, don't buy a report. Those years were printed in enormous quantities and are worth very little regardless of who's on the cards. The free first look will tell you that for nothing, and a $39 report will mostly tell you the same thing at greater length. Same story for a 1950s–70s stamp album where nothing was ever kept separately from the rest — albums like that are the most commonly over-valued inheritance there is, and the honest answer on stamp albums is usually disappointing.

Send five photographs first. Every time. If there's nothing here, we'd rather tell you for free than take $39 to write it up nicely.

Three things people ask before paying

Is there a subscription?

No recurring plan appears anywhere in the price list. Each tier is a one-time payment for one examination, and the free first look needs neither an account nor a card.

How do I get the report?

You upload the photographs and stay on the page. A live tracker runs while the three passes work through them, usually two to five minutes, and the report appears there. Then it's a printable archival PDF you can keep or send on.

What happens to my photographs?

Rotated on ingest so a phone photo doesn't arrive sideways, capped at 1600px, stored under hash-derived paths rather than the original filename, and served only through a signed route. Nothing goes to a dealer or a broker, because we don't know any.

Who this is wrong for

Anyone who needs a certified appraisal with a signature on it — for an insurance schedule, a contested estate, a charitable deduction or a court. It's also wrong for anyone who wants a single precise number, and for anyone who wants us to sell the collection for them. We won't, at any price. If you're not sure which of those describes you, the first-week checklist costs nothing to read.

This is an informational estimate from photographs, not a certified appraisal. We tell you what is worth paying an appraiser to look at — we have no interest in buying anything you own. Values are always given as ranges, and where a photograph can't settle it, the report says “worth a professional look” rather than inventing a figure.